WASHOKU.COM

Washoku is the Japanese word for Japanese cuisine. This blog will introduce Japanese food, the chefs, dishes, pottery, and Japanese culture. All photos are by Naoko Takagi, contributions from other individuals will be noted.

Sunday, December 6, 2015

Sujiko (Salted Salmon Ovary or Salted Trout Ovary, with Roe)

Photo of  sujiko, salmon roe
Sujiko,  筋子

Photo of  sujiko, salmon roe
Sujiko,  筋子



Sujiko (Salted Salmon Ovary or Salted Trout Ovary, with Roe)


Sujiko is bought by families and restaurants and comes in two varieties: salted and unsalted. The unsalted variety is called nama-sujiko. The chef prepares the sujiko by washing and straining it gently and repeatedly. Little by little, the connecting tissue breaks up and washes away leaving the delicate roe. This roe is then transformed into ikura, one of the most popular dishes in Japan and popular Japanese restaurants around the world.

The ikura is prepared by marinating in soy sauce and dashi. Depending on the chef, other seasonings like sake or mirin are added according to taste and preference. The total process is quite involved, but the resulting dish is a feast for the eyes. In addition, it's supple texture yields a soft popping texture when chewed, satisfying people who love roe.

Top chefs will tell you that when choosing a salmon to purchase, King Salmon is the best option for its meat, but for ikura, the better choice is to buy Chum Salmon. It is best to buy this when it is in its spawning season. Coincidentally, that time is now.




いくらと筋子


みんなの大好きなご馳走、いくら。その紅く輝くきらきらの粒は我々を魅了してなりません。

「いくら」とは味付けされ、一粒ずつにバラされた鮭(鱒)の卵のことを指し、「筋子」とはばらす前の卵巣の状態のことを指します。最近では市場に出回るほとんどの筋子はあらかじめ塩漬けもしくは味噌漬けにされて出荷される為、何も手を加えていない生の状態の筋子は「生筋子」と呼んで区別されている様です。

ニューヨークはSOHOにある日本料理店HirohisaのオーナーシェフであるHirohisa Hayashi氏曰く、「鮭はキングサーモンがダントツにおいしい。然し乍ら、いくらにして一番おいしいのは白鮭の卵。」とのこと。

お寿司屋さんや高級日本料理屋さんで頂くいくらは、筋子から丁寧にバラされ、選別され、何度もやさしく洗った後味付けされ、たくさんの手間がかけられています。その「手間」が良い素材とともに「美味しさ」の必須条件なのかもしれません。鮭の産卵期は冬です。いくらも今が一番の旬です。




Saturday, November 28, 2015

Chirasi-zushi with Salmon Roe and Snow Crabs




Chirasi-zushi with Salmon Roe and Snow Crabs


Chirasi-zushi is one of the sushi dishes in Tokyo, Japan. The many kinds of sashimi are put onto "sumeshi (white rice cooked for sushi)" and it looks like a gorgeous seafood rice bowl. However, people from other parts of Japan, and people from countries outside of Japan have begun to savor this meal.

This chirashi is made with salmon roe, snow crab meat, seaweed, shiso, mitsuba (Japanese parsley), sumeshi and shredded omelet (it's a complex dish that usually only chefs can master well). November to December is the best time to eat this dish.

It can be confusing to order this dish because people from other parts of Japan know Chirasi-zushi to mean "gomoku-zushi (several kinds of ingredients like eggs, lotus, shiitake mushroom, eel, carrots, kanpyo and, etc. are mixed with sumeshi)", a meal for a celebration. Be careful when you are ordering to avoid confusion.


いくらとかにのちらし寿司

ちらし寿司といえばハレの日のご馳走です。ちらし寿司とは関東では酢飯の上に握り寿し用の刺身をふんだんに盛り付けたものを指し、他の地域ではいわゆる五目ずしのことをちらし寿司と呼んでいるようです。お寿司屋さんで開発されたメニューで、比較的新しいお料理になります。

職人技が冴える錦糸卵と、ご馳走の代表格であるいくらとかにのちらし寿司。今が一番の旬です。




Photo shoot at Hirohisa

Monday, November 23, 2015

Female Snow Crabs

Photo of female snow crabs せいこ蟹の写真 コッペ蟹



Female Snow Crabs (called "koppe-gani / seko-gani / seiko-gani in Japanese)


Usually, when people hear the word "snow crabs", we imagine plump, yummy legs and claws, but those are male snow crabs. The body size is significantly different between the two sexes of a snow crab. Female snow crabs are typically 1/3 of the size of a male snow crab.
In addition to size, around November, pregnant snow crabs carry "sotoko (fertilized eggs)" which have a similarly satisfying popping crunch as sea grapes when you chew them. "Uchiko (the ovary)" has a rich strong crab flavor. These flavors are quite different from the flavors of the male snow crab and as a result, the female snow crab is considered a signature dish during the winter feast known as Fuyu no mikaku. The unique flavor combination of the sotoko, uchiko and "kani-miso (the brown meat)" leads you to the next level as a gastronomist.

Pour sake to the shell when you finish enjoying the crab meat. The sake will take on a subtle flavor of the kani-miso--a deeply satisfying way to complete the meal.

Interesting fact, the brown bead-like formations on crabs shell are the eggs of a leech that commonly lives on crabs. There are many mysteries surrounding these parasites, but they don't harm crabs themselves. They only use the hard surface as a safe place to lay their eggs. They don't infect the crabs in anyway, so they are safe to eat.



通の一品 せいこ蟹

冬の味覚といえばズワイガニなくして語れませんが、今回はズワイガニのメスであるせいこ蟹についてのお話です。

ズワイガニと呼ばれる蟹は全てオスであり、そのメスはせいこ蟹(コッペ蟹、せこがに等名称は水揚げされる地域によって様々)と呼ばれ、その体長はオスの1/3程しかないところで見分けがつきます。産卵期を控えた11月頃からのコッペ蟹は、お腹にはち切れんばかりの外子(受精卵)と蟹の旨味の全てが詰まった濃厚芳醇な内子(卵巣)を抱えており、オスのズワイガニとはまた違った上質な味わいが楽しめます。体が小さい分、脚の肉はたくさん頂けませんが、外子と内子そして蟹味噌とのコンビネーションは、他の食材では替えることのできない、食通を唸らせる冬の一品です。

ちなみに蟹の甲羅に見られる褐色の粒は「カニビル」と呼ばれるヒルの卵だそう。カニビルはカニ自体に影響を与えることはなく、泥のような海底に棲むカニビルの産卵場所として、海底で唯一硬い場所「蟹の背中」に卵を産みつけ、卵から帰ると魚の血を吸って成長するとのこと。脱皮を繰り返しながら成長するズワイガニ/コッペ蟹の甲羅のカニビルの卵の数は、最後の脱皮からどのくらいの年月が経っているかを示す指標となるので、一般的には、卵の数が多いほど脱皮から日が経っており、身がぎっちり詰まった美味しいカニだとされる。


Female Snow Crabs せいこ蟹 こっぺ蟹




Photo shoot at Hirohisa

Saturday, November 14, 2015

Suppon (a soft-shelled turtle)

Copyright 2015 by Naoko Takagi

Copyright 2015 by Naoko Takagi

Copyright 2015 by Naoko Takagi
Suppon from Shizuoka Prefecture, Japan  静岡産すっぽん



Suppon

One of the famous Japanese dishes is Suppon (a soft-shelled turtle). The extract and the broth of suppon is well known as the most delicious flavor in the world.

Preparing suppons makes us feel thankful for the sacrifice they make by becoming our food. Japanese people have a ritual of saying, "Itadakimasu" before eating. This is a kind of greeting. "Itadakimasu" means "I'm going to eat," "thank you for the cooking," or "thank you for giving your life to me. "Killing suppons makes us re-realize that we take something's life away. The "Itadakimasu" spirit is one of the traditions that Japanese culture and culinary artists want to spread all over the world.


すっぽん

日本人の強壮剤、すっぽん。その出汁は世界で一番美味しいものという。
すっぽんの解体は、日本人が食前に唱える「いただきます。」の心に意味をもたせます。我々は他の命を頂いて生きていることを再認識させられます。
「いただきます。」こそ、世界に広めたい日本料理の真髄なのかもしれません。



Photo shoot at Hirohisa

Saturday, November 7, 2015

TRUFFLES



Truffles

Black truffles are often called a black diamond. Its strong odor is reminiscent of leaking gas oil. Although that may not sound appetizing, it is one of the most sought after ingredients for top quality restaurants in the world. The most popular farm for black truffles is in France, while white truffles are from Italy. The biggest export country, however, is China (a different variety of truffles). The truffle hunter always brings his partner- a female pig or dog. Pigs and dogs are also love to eat the truffles so when they find them, there is always a a great struggle to harvest them before the pig or dog does.

These truffles are best enjoyed with white miso in Japanese cuisine.


トリュフ

「黒いダイヤモンド」黒トリュフ。松茸とはまた違う魅惑的な強い香りが特徴。例えるなら、漏れているガソリンのような。有名な産地は黒トリュフがフランス、白トリュフがイタリア。最大出荷国は中国・雲南省(フランス産とは異種)。トリュフハンターの相棒は雌の豚か犬。ぶたもいぬもトリュフ自体が好物なので、見つけ次第飼い主との小競り合い。日本料理には、白みそと合わせるのが絶妙とのこと。
ちなみに英語では「トゥラッフォゥズ」と発音します。「トリュフ」と言うても通じませんし、トゥラッフォゥズと言われたら、それはトリュフのことです。



Photoshoot at Hirohisa

Monday, October 19, 2015

Matsutake



Matsutake

This photo shows one variety of the MATSUTAKE mushroom from Oregon in the United States. Every Autumn, Japanese people go wild for this mushroom. There are many recipes for this, but chef Hayashi at Hirohisa in New York recommends that this mushroom be grilled, deep fried with panko or put into a soup. This exquisite mushroom has captivated the attention of the Japanese people as well as mushroom connoisseurs. The smell alone drives people to spend exorbitant amounts of money for only a sliver of the matsutake.

Scientists have not been successful at growing it in an artificial setting. Despite decades of research, the only way to enjoy this mushroom is to pay for its foraging. It is so rare that foraging is a very expensive endeavor.


松茸。

まつたけ。写真のものはオレゴン産。
焼き松茸、土瓶蒸し、フライがシェフのいち押しの味わい方。松茸ご飯も良し、すき焼きも良し。生きているうちは、毎年、年に一回は食べたいものです。


Photoshoot at Hirohisa

Wednesday, October 7, 2015

Manabashi




Manabashi. (A type of long chopsticks used in the preparation of fish)

Today, using chopsticks is very popular all over the world but this time, I'd like to introduce you a specific type of chopsticks used just for cooking.

This is a one of Japanese people's necessary culinary tools. They are usually made with iron.
They have have been in existence since about 1500 a.c. in Japan according to official historical records. Once communities began forming in Japan, after the hunter-gatherers shifted to agricultural techniques, people cooked fish or meat (which have a fishy raw smell), and used these chopsticks to avoid cross-contamination with other ingredients.

The word "Manabashi " means fish that is put on the plates as "Mana" and "Bashi" means chopsticks in Japanese. For the vegetables, we use the chopsticks called "Saibashi" which are made with wood. "Sai" means vegetables.

In Japan, we have a unique sacred ceremony by using the Manabashi. The ceremony leader cuts the fish beautifully without touching it and dedicates the fish to the Gods. The leader uses a pair of manabashi in his left hand and a big knife in his right. We can still see it at some shrines even now. We call this ceremony "Hocho-shiki".

A chef told me that when he uses the manabashi, he feels his spirit awakening.

Great chefs and great tools are always together. Well maintained tools lead professionals to the next level in every field.



真魚箸。「まなばし」と読みます。
菜箸の金属バージョンのようなお箸。日本において、紀元1500年頃には既に使用されていた記録が残っています。平安時代に登場し始めた魚や鳥、いわゆる生臭ものを調理するときに使われていたようです。
魚などを扱うために真魚箸と呼ばれ、生臭さがお箸に移らないように鉄製で出来ています。
それに対して、野菜などを扱う木製で出来た調理用のお箸を菜箸と呼びます。

真魚箸を使った包丁儀式が古くから日本で行われています。指一本触れることなく魚を捌き、それを神様に納めるのです。左手で真魚箸を掴み、右手で式包丁を使うと言う凄技です。

ちなみに真魚と言うのは、御膳にのせる魚(食用の魚)と言う意味で、まな板等の「まな」もその真魚です。

日本料理のシェフ曰く、「真魚箸を使うと料理中の気持ちも変わり、ピッとします。気持ちの面でもとても大事な道具の一つですね。」とのこと。
道具と職人は一心同体。良い道具とそれらのお手入れは持ち主にさらなる飛躍をもたらすのです。


Contributer: Hiroshi Kitano
Photo shoot at Horohisa

Tuesday, September 15, 2015

Transparent Tomato Soup




Transparent Tomato Soup

Tomato soup, is loved by many all over the world and comes in many varieties, depending on the region.

Traditionally, tomato soup is not a popular dish in Japanese food culture, and possibly even Asia. However, a skilled and highly creative Japanese chef can transform the dish to represent Japanese cuisine at its best. Please allow me to introduce you to a unique transparent tomato soup.

This chilled soup, has an intense tomato flavor.
The tomatoes are strained over night, allowing the
tomato extract to drain through the strainer with perfect clarity. Then the chef adds kombu-dashi (kelp broth) and a dash of salt to complete the soup.
Tomatoes have glutamic acid, which is one of the ingredients used for creating the umami flavor.

By extracting this juice from the tomato slowly, we are able to enjoy the richest flavor that a tomato has to offer.


透明なトマトスープ

トマトスープもプロのシェフにかかれば立派な日本料理となります。
世界中で愛される「トマトスープ」。
今回はユニークに、真っ赤なトマトから抽出した、クリアで澄んだトマトスープを紹介いたします。

この涼しげな一杯、見た目とは違い、強烈なトマトの味がします。
潰したトマトを一晩かけて漉すと、透明なトマトのエキスが抽出されます。そこに少しの昆布出汁と塩で味を調整します。これで完成です。
トマトには旨味成分であるグルタミン酸が含まれており、これをスープとして抽出することにより、トマトのおいしいところがたっぷり味わえる夏の一品となるのです。


Photoshoot at Hirohisa

Wednesday, August 26, 2015

Cold Tomato Soup






Cold Tomato Soup


Would you like to have some cold refreshing tomato soup? And it's not gazpacho.
I'd like to introduce an unique Japanese variation of tomato soup. Strained over time and slowly ripened Momotaro tomatos are used to make a hearty and pure tomato extract. Then softly and gently boiled with dashi a fresh piece of lobster and abalone(Awabi in Japnese) are dropped into the soup. After that the chef adds some okra and red siso as an accent. Served with Nasturtium, an edible flower.

This cold luxury owan(soup), stuns us with it's looks, and cools us down
when we indulge. This is a soup that can be enjoyed around the world.


冷製トマトスープ

暑い夏場には、温かい椀物の代わりに贅沢な冷製トマトスープはいかがでしょう。といってもガスパチョではありません。
しっかり熟した完熟桃太郎トマトをゆっくり時間をかけて漉して抽出したピュアなエキスに、柔らかくやさしく煮た産地直送のロブスターとアワビを落とします。アクセントに夏のお野菜オクラ、赤紫蘇と食用のお花ナスタチウムを添えて。

冷たく冷やされた一杯のこの華やかな冷製椀物、見た目にため息、食べて涼しく、贅沢なロブスターとアワビを楽しんだ後の澄んだトマトスープの強烈で意外なトマト味に、心踊らない人はいないでしょう。



Photo shoot at Hirohisa

Tuesday, August 4, 2015

A Peach Dish



A Peach Dish

Delaware white peach compote with home made plum wine with tomato and red wine sherbet.

もも

ももは世界中で愛される芳醇で艶かしい果実です。ももの旬は夏。今回はこの旬の桃を使った一品について。




Peaches have a very rich, sweet, supple flavor and loved by most people around the world. The peach is harvested in the summer and the perfect time to compose a dish with the fruit.

1. The peaches are peeled by a chef very gently
2. They are stewed with a homemade plum wine (without being overcooked)
3. The peaches are placed into a summer glass dish and topped with the tomato and red wine sherbet
4. Finally, the dish is garnished with a small edible flower

It's a very crisp summer dish with a subtle sweetness that completes the meal.


もも園がたくさんあるデラウェアから直送された白桃をひとつひとつシェフが丁寧に手剥きします。これを自家製の梅酒で煮込みます。ポイントは煮込みすぎないこと。表面だけが柔らかくなるように上手に煮ないといけません。この桃の梅酒煮を夏を感じる爽やかな器に盛り付け、その上に赤ワインで仕込んだトマトのシャーベットを落とします。ポイントに季節の小さなお花を添えて。

甘すぎない大人な風味の白桃の梅酒煮にユニークなトマトのシャーベットがなんとも爽やかな夏の一品です。


Photo shoot at Hirohisa

Wednesday, July 22, 2015

Snow Crab



Snow Crab

The Snow Crab is one of the dishes of the Winter Feast in Japan (snow crab is called "zuwai gani" in Japanese). However, summertime is the best season to fish for snow crab in North America. Most of them are found in Alaska. The best chefs in New York begin offering snow crab during this peak fishing season. Hirohisa Hayashi, owner and chef at the Japanese restaurant Hirohisa in SoHo NYC, introduced me to a dish with snow crab.




His dish is a mix of snow peas, purslane and kanimiso (miso-like paste found inside a crab's intestinal area) topped with snow crab legs, caviar and house made bottarga. The chef recommended that this dish be enjoyed as an appetizer for a summer course. The Alaskan snow crab is big and tasty but a more delicate flavor than Japanese variety, so he added caviar and bottarga to compliment the delicate meat, but also to create a richer, complex flavor combination.

His attention to detail and his skillful selection of ingredients allows him to offer outstanding dishes like Snow Crab. Its crisp summer flavor of the mixed vegetables, blended with the savory snow crab meat and the aroma of the caviar was accented by the bottarga. Anyone can make an excellent dish with these delicious snow crabs, but eating a dish prepared by a professional chef, like Mr. Hayashi, takes summer snow crab to another level all together. 





ズワイガニについて

我々日本人にとってはカニは冬の御馳走である。ここアメリカではカニの旬は夏なのである。アメリカで流通するカニのほとんどはアラスカ産であり、それはズワイガニである。北アメリカでは夏がズワイガニの水揚げの最盛期で、食べごろなのです。

今回、ニューヨークはSoHoにある日本料理店ひろ久のオーナーシェフであるHirohisa Hayashiさんに旬のズワイガニを使った一品を紹介していただきました。

きぬさやとパースレインをかにみそで和えたものにズワイガニの脚の肉、キャビア、そして自家製からすみをパラパラと。シェフ曰く、夏のコース料理の一品目として味わっていただきたい一皿。アラスカ産のズワイガニは大きくておいしいが、日本産と比べると味が少し薄い。なのでキャビアとからすみで風味を上げるとのこと。こちらの自家製からすみは半年熟成された林氏の手づくり。ズワイガニの脚の身も、ひとつひとつシェフの手でむかれており、丁寧な仕事の逸品。
わたくし、味見させていただきました。

めっちゃおいしい。

めちゃくちゃ美味しかったです。さっぱりとした夏なお野菜の和え物に、カニの旨味、キャビアの塩気とからすみのアクセントがとっても幸せです。カニはシンプルに茹でただけでもおいしいですが、プロの手によって一品として味わうのにも素晴らしい食材です。

ちなみにズワイガニは水揚げされる地域によってブランド化され、松葉ガニや越前ガニ、間人ガニなど様々な呼称がありますが全てズワイガニだそう。

Monday, July 13, 2015

About Rice





We call steamed rice "gohan" in Japan. The way rice is prepared is reflected by what it is called in Japanese, rather than how in English "rice" is modified by an adjective. In many Asian countries rice is considered the main part of the meal. There are many regional varieties of rice wheat chosen for a meal, but when rice is eaten by itself, I think the Japanese brand "Koshihikari" is the most delicious variety. This brand of rice, shown in the photo, is grown and processed in Ikedacho, in the Fukui prefecture of Japan. This town is surrounded by wilderness and pure water from the area. The warm and humid climate is necessary for the production of high quality rice, but abundant clean water is the most important element. The environment of Japan is ideal for such high quality rice production and for that reason the people of Japan can enjoy some of the best rice in the world. Not only that, but in Japan, the traditional spices and seasonings like miso, shoyu (soy sauce), sake (YES!) and nuka (rice bran) are made from rice. Higher quality rice makes higher quality seasonings. I am sure that many arguments could be made about which rice is the best in Japan since it largely depends on where you were raised and happy childhood memories associated with a certain variety, but there are many excellent varieties to choose from in Japan. Everyone enjoys their rice in the end.


ごはん。
炊いたお米をご飯と呼ぶ。日本を始め、アジア人の主食である米。各国それぞれの料理に適する品種が在るが、ごはんだけで食べると日本産のコシヒカリは本当においしいと思う。このお米は福井県池田町産コシヒカリ。池田町は自然がそのままの状態で残されており、何より水が美しいことが粒よりのおいしいお米ができる一番の理由である。米の生産には温暖で湿潤な気候はもとよりきれいな水が不可欠で、日本では越前地方が最も米作りに適した環境とされている。日本は水がきれいなことも米食が根付いた大きな一因である。

日本の調味料である味噌や醤油や酒、糠などもお米が原料である。稲作は先史時代より中国大陸から伝わり、日本に定着した。そして今でも我々日本人にとってなくてはならない命の源となっている。愛する人が握ってくれるおにぎりより美味いものはないのである。と思うのは私が日本で育ったからでしょうか。


Photo shoot at Horohisa

Thursday, June 25, 2015

Footwear in the Kitchen



Footwear in the Kitchen

Takageta (tall wooden clogs) were worn by chefs around Japan and especially in Kyoto to protect their feet from being chilled to the bone by the cold temperatures permeating the floor of the kitchen. The height of the takageta allowed the chefs to work more comfortably, despite having more limited mobility.

Today, chefs choose comfortable rubber sandals instead.

履き物について

日本料理店の調理場では、料理人は皆高下駄を履いている。会席料理の本場、底冷えのする京都では調理場はとても冷える。料理人の体調を考慮して、床より高さのある高下駄を履くようになったと言われている。
高下駄の名残で、今では履き心地の良いゴム草履がその役割を担っている。


Chefs' Geta (photo credit:amazon.co.jp) 


Photo shoot at Hirohisa

Tuesday, June 9, 2015

Dashi (Japanese Broth)



Bonito broth (Katsuo dashi) and Kelp broth (Kombu dashi) are two of the most important flavors for Japanese cuisine. In Japanese food, dashi is the base. Then we add soy sauce, miso or salt. The quality of the dashi determines the quality of the food and is the essence of Japanese cuisine. In basic dashi, various types of kombu and katsuobushi (dried, fermented, and smoked skipjack tuna) are chosen to create this important flavor.

Makombu is a type of kombu from Hokkaido, Japan. This kind kombu has thicker flavor and it tends to be preferred by the people of other world cultures. However, at really excellent Japanese restaurants in Japan, especially Kyoto, chefs prefer to use "rishiri kombu". It has a clearer color and a delicate flavor and is preferred by Japanese people who grow up in Japan.

The preferred Katsuobushi abroad has a rich red color because the flavor is thicker than the other one. The other variety is preferred by restaurants in Kyoto usually. Much like the higher quality kombu, this more delicate flavor is preferred by the locals. For people from other cultures, who feel "umami' is the new taste, the more common varieties of katsuobushi and kombu are a good combination to understand the umami flavor.


出汁について
鰹と昆布の出汁は日本の食卓にとって、なくてはならない基本の味である。鰹と昆布でとった出汁に醤油や味噌、塩などを加えるともうそれは日本食である。日本料理の世界ではこの出汁が全てである。良い出汁が取れれば、それで全て良しなのである。

この昆布は北海道・道南産 真昆布。味が濃く出る種類です。欧米ではこちらの品種が好まれる傾向にあります。京都の料亭などでは、出汁で育つ日本人に対して利尻昆布のような上品で澄んだ味わいの昆布が使われます。
かつおぶしは血合い入りのものを欧米では好まれます。これも京の会席料理などで使用する血合いなしの香り高いかつおぶしに対して、味が濃く出るためです。旨味を新しい味と感じる外国人には、このような組み合わせで取る出汁が一番理解し易い味わいとなっているようです。



Japanese people grow up with the spirit of "mottainai" which means to avoid waste. This influences cooking as well. We use everything as much as we can. We use everything edible in vegetables, fish and meat. From one end to the other, including bones and meats, roots and flowers, nothing is wasted. For example, a fish head and bones are used in preparation of Japanese food. They are grilled lightly then used as broth. When they are grilled, the fishy smell dissipates, the water is removed and taste has been thickened. The dashi made from these saved and usually unwanted parts in other cultures is really delicious.


日本人は昔から「もったいない」意識が根付いています。それは料理においてもそうです。素材を余すことなく最大限有効に使います。これは料理の上手い人ほど達人のような気がします。野菜も魚も肉も、端から端、骨から身までおいしく使います。例えば魚のアラ。身をとった後の頭と骨だけの魚をひと炙りし、出汁の材料として使います。アラは焼くことにより、魚特有の生臭さが消され、余分な水分が飛ぶことによって味が凝縮されます。このアラでとった出汁も我々を唸らせます。


Photoshoot at Hirohisa

Saturday, May 23, 2015

Lightly Roasted Bonito (Katsuo no Tataki)



Lightly Roasted Bonito (Katsuo no Tataki)

For the Japanese, the words "Katsuo no tataki" conjure images of a breezy early summer and fresh green foliage.
The bonito season in Japan is from early summer to autumn because of the ocean currents around the islands of Japan. During the season, bonitos North from the South, and then return. When they return south, their bodies are fattened because of their time spent in the frigid ocean current. Their really delicious and aromatic fat changes the taste of bonito. Some people prefer the light early summer flavor of bonito and others prefer the fatty bonito. However, bonito are all over the world and we can catch them throughout the year, so we can enjoy their subtle and varied tastes depending on the location and season.

Japanese culture has had a deep and enduring relationship with bonito. Early on, people have offered bonito to the shrines as food for the spirits. Also the people of the Edo era, in Tokyo, competed with others in buying early summer bonito. They even sold their wives and kids to eat them. Still today, bonito flakes are the most important ingredient of Washoku (Japanese cuisine).
Bonito are 20 to 40 inches long. It's a wonder how ancient people caught these fish with their hefty weight and large size presenting a considerable challenge to fisherman with simple techniques.

Katsuo no tataki is famous in the Kouchi prefecture as the representative food, especially since it is served as "Sawachi ryori" (a big one plate meal). The history of Katsuo no tataki is very old, but vary around the country with conflicting claims. Being served katsuo no tataki sawachi ryori is a very heart warming happy feast.
Bonito is very delicate fish, like tuna. They spoil quickly. Usually, when we eat bonito raw, we serve it with condiments (shred ginger, garlic, scallions...etc), as toppings. However, these are no longer just "condiments", they add a a mouth-watering, complex flavor. The best way to smoke this dish is by burning rice straw. Served best with cold sake.



鰹のたたき

 鰹のたたきといえばなんとも言えず初夏を思い浮かべるのは私だけではないはずです。日本人の多くはこの「鰹のたたき」という響きに青々とした新緑と爽やかな夏の始まりを連想するでしょう。
 日本でのカツオの旬は初夏〜秋と言われています。これは太平洋における日本列島付近の海流によるためです。この旬の季節に、カツオは日本の南部へやってきて、一旦北上した後また南下してきます。この南下する際に獲れるカツオは、その時期の影響による低い海水のため、体に脂肪を蓄えており、脂ののった素晴らしく美味いカツオとなり、初夏に北上してくる身のしまったカツオとはまた違った味わいがあります。
 カツオ自体は多くの海域で一年中獲れるので、産地と時期によっては世界中でさまざまな状態のカツオが味わえるといえます。

 カツオという魚は日本文化ととても深い関わりがあります。古くは神々の時代まで遡り、当時よりカツオは神饌のひとつとして神様へお供えされていました。江戸のいなせな若衆たちは初鰹を女房子供を質に入れててでも食い、干した鰹節は和食にはなくてはならない味の根源です。カツオの体長は50㎝〜1mと大きく、力も強いので、漁法の未熟であった昔の人々がどのようにカツオを捕まえたのか、とても気になります。

 鰹のたたきは高知県の皿鉢料理として有名ですが、その料理の歴史自体は古いものの正式な出典には幾つかの諸説があるようです。高知出身の友人のお宅に伺った際に、友人のお母さんが皿いっぱいの鰹のたたき(皿鉢料理。さすが高知!)を作ってくださり、とてもハッピーなお食事やったことを思い出します。
 
 カツオは傷みが早いため、生食する場合には薬味が供されます。この薬味(生姜、にんにく、ねぎ等)が「鰹のたたき」として今やなくてはならない味わいを添えています。また燻しには藁を使うのが一番美味と言われています。

 鰹のたたきには冷酒でクイッといきたい気分です。


Photoshoot at Hirohisa

Thursday, May 7, 2015

Spring Vegetables 2




春のお野菜・第2弾

タラの芽、カタクリ、甘草の根、たんぽぽ、イタドリ、ガーリック・マスタード、ペッパークレス、トロントリリー、ナズナ。

春の到来を象徴する山菜です。

山菜をはじめに食べ始めたのはいつごろでしょう?ヒトが狩猟・採集しているころまでさかのぼるのでしょうか。野山に自生している植物は、すべてが食用ではありません。毒をもつ植物も少なからずあり、またそれらの植物は食べられる植物に酷似している場合も多くあります。昔の人の生身のチャレンジのおかげで私たちは美味しい山菜とそうでないものの区別ができるのですね。

日本に古くからある医食同源の考え方が、欧米にも広がり始めています。感度の高い欧米のシェフたちが自身の料理の表現方法にこのような考え方を取り入れ始め、様々なメディアを通して新しい食事・料理の在り方として注目され始めています。


Spring Vegetables 2

 Sprouts of Aralia Elata (We call it Tara no me), Ground Ivy (Katakuri), Licorice (Kanzo no ne), Dandelion (Tanpopo), Japanese Knotweed (Itadori), Garlic Mustard, Pepper Cress, Toront Lily and Shepherd's Purse (Nazuna).

 "Wild Plants" represent the food of Spring, we call these wild plants "Sansai".

 When did people begin to eat the wild plants? Perhaps this practice began in early human history while people hunted; they might have also gathered these wild plants. Some wild plants are edible, but some of them are not. There are many poisonous plants among them and some of them look edible. Early humans had to experiment to learn which one is edible and which one is not by eating the plants themselves, discovering along the way which are the most delicious of the edible plants. Thanks go to our ancestors!

 "Ishokudougen" is a way of thinking about eating, which Japanese people commonly do, is healing illness or injuries by yourself through a balanced delicious meal each day. It goes without saying that eating healthily improves the body's ability to resist illness and repair itself more rapidly. This lifestyle has been spreading to first world countries recently. Highly perceptive chefs have started to use this style for their work and has been introduced by many media outlets. The use of wild plants as food will gradually become more recognized.




Photoshoot at Hirohisa

Tuesday, April 28, 2015

Spring Vegetables 1



春のお野菜。
あわび茸、モリーユ茸、菜の花、アスパラガス、ギョウジャニンニク、こごみ。

日本人は昔から季節のものを食べてきました。今しか食べられない、今の時期が一番おいしい。と言うて旬の素材を食べるのが好きなのです。また、旬のものはおいしいだけでなく、栄養も最も肥えています。昔から人は自然と共に在ったのですね。

Spring Vegetables.
Oyster Mushroom (We call it Awabi take), Morel (Amigasa take), Broccoli Rabe (Nanohana), Asparagus, Ramp (Gyoja ninniku) and Fiddle Head (Kogomi).

Japanese people have been eating seasonal food from a long long time ago. They love to feel the season through food. Seasonal ingredients are not only delicious, but they also have the highest nutritional value of the year. Eating seasonally allows a certain harmony between people and nature.



Photoshoot at Hirohisa

Tuesday, April 7, 2015

A chef's knives.

日本料理店ひろ久のオーナーシェフ・Hirohisa Hayashi氏の包丁。

Chef Hirohisa Hayashi's (at Hirohisa) knives.







玉鋼による本焼き。本焼きによる製法とは、ほかの軟鉄等と合わせずに鋼のみで生成された刃物を指す。日本刀と同じ製法で、高度が高く切れ味が凄まじく鋭い。こちらの包丁は林氏のお父様より受け継がれたもの。


Cutting is the first step for cooking. Taking care of a chef's equipment and having deep knowledge of it is also very important work for professional chef.

Made by Tamahagane, a steel made from iron sand or black sand using the Honyaki technique (used only with the Tamahagane material). This knife is made by the same process and material as Japanese swords, weapons renowned for their strength and sharpness. This knife was given to chef Hayashi from his father. If someone touches the blade even slightly he would be cut very deeply.








粉末ハイスピード鋼に依って生成された包丁。この金属は鉄を切る為の鉄を生成する技術に依って作製されるもの。そのため硬度は鉄の中でも最も硬い。また、ダマスカス鋼で仕上げてある為、硬いながらもしなやかさも併せ持つ。表面の美しい文様もこのダマスカス鋼による。料理包丁にはしなやかさがとても重要とのこと。
高村刃物製作所作。

林氏曰く、これらの包丁は指が少し触れただけで、「サクっ」といってしまうとのこと。
料理はまず「切る」ことからはじまります。仕事道具を熟知することや日々の手入れもプロの料理人の大事な仕事のひとつなのですね。


This knife shown here is made by high-speed steel cutting technique. This technique produces the hardest strength steel. It is finished with a beautifully textured design using the Damascus steel technique making a flexible blade with an extremely hard edge. Chef Hayashi said this is very important for a chef's knives.
Made by Takamurahamono.

Saturday, April 4, 2015

Spring Tilefish with Sakura (guji no sakura mushi) by Hirohisa Hayashi




ぐじ(甘鯛)の桜蒸し (シェフ:Hirohisa Hayashi at ひろ久

春を代表する歴史のある日本料理の一品。

道明寺(もち米を蒸して乾燥させたもの)を春が旬のぐじ(甘鯛)の身で包み、桜の葉で巻いて蒸し上げ、くず粉でとろみをつけた温かい出汁をかける。アクセントで散らされたぶぶあられの食感が食べた時に弾けて楽しい。もちもちとした食感とぐじの甘みと桜の香りが上品な一品。蓋を開けたときに目に飛び込む桜の花びらと、ほのかな桜の香りが、なんとも言えないワクワク感を感じさせ、春の喜びが溢れた逸品である。

器:九谷焼

Spring Tilefish with Sakura (guji no sakura mushi) by Hirohisa Hayashi at Hirohisa

A traditional dish representing the Spring season in Japanese culture, Spring Tilefish with Sakura is a Japanese cherry blossom leaf wrapped around spring tilefish, which is then wrapped around sticky rice and steamed. Served in thick, warm dash broth and accented by small crunchy rice crackers. Sophisticated textures are complimented by the delicate scent of the cherry blossom which surprises when first opening the lid to this dish and, in Japanese culture, brings the joy of Spring to the table.

Bowl and Lid: Kutani ware